Local Discovery

Plaza Uruguaya, steps from the hotel, is a shaded square with old trees, booksellers and the former central railway station. The station building houses a small railway museum with historic locomotives and carriages, reminders of the line opened under Carlos Antonio López. It is a pleasant place to begin exploring the city. Morning visits are cooler and quieter.

Calle Palma, the main commercial street of the old centre, runs a few blocks north and leads to the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes. This domed monument, inspired by Les Invalides in Paris, contains the remains of national heroes, and a ceremonial guard changes regularly. Shops selling ñandutí lace, leather goods and souvenirs line the surrounding streets. Weekend events sometimes turn Palma into a pedestrian zone with music and food stalls.

The Metropolitan Cathedral and Plaza de Armas lie about ten minutes on foot. Nearby, the Palacio de López, the presidential palace, faces the bay and is illuminated at night. The Cabildo, now a cultural centre, presents exhibitions on Paraguayan history and culture. The Manzana de la Rivera, a block of restored historic houses opposite the palace, offers a museum and fine views.

Casa de la Independencia, a colonial house where independence was planned in 1811, is only a short walk away. Its rooms, furniture and documents tell the story of the country's birth. Entrance is usually free.

The Costanera, the riverside promenade along the Bay of Asunción, is popular for evening walks, cycling and sunset views over the Paraguay River. Loma San Jerónimo, a hillside neighbourhood with colourful houses and stairways, lies close to it and has small cafés.

Mercado 4, a large and chaotic market about ten minutes by taxi, sells everything from medicinal herbs for tereré to electronics and street food. It offers an authentic view of daily life, but valuables should be kept close.

Paraguayan cuisine deserves exploration, from sopa paraguaya, a solid cornbread, to chipa, mbejú and vori vori soup. Tereré, cold herbal tea drunk from a shared guampa, is recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage and is part of daily life.